Croatia

Split Walking Tour: An introduction to a city like no other

We had the privilege of joining Split Walking Tour, for a fantastic walking tour of the city. Split is a city like no other, built within the shell of the Roman Emperor Diocletian’s Palace. The whole city is a tourist attraction! It is quite feasible to just wander its narrow streets, with palaces galore (and you should!). However, there is no better way to see it than with a knowledgable local guide.

The Split Walking Tour departs from the Golden Gate and the humongous statue of Gregory of Nin by Croatian sculptor Ivan Mestrovic. It is easy to find the Split Walking Tour representatives as they hold blue umbrellas, no matter what the weather! Unlike many other places, Croatia have banned ‘free tours’, but Split Walking Tours offer fantastic value for money. They are the number one rated tour company in Split on Trip Advisor, and even Rick Steves has recommended them.

The Split Walking Tour is in two parts, the first being the major draw – Diocletian’s Palace. If you like, you can save a bit of money by following the tour just up to this point. You’ll be given the option to stay on or leave, so you can always decide then. Our guide was Danko, who reminded us of Mulder from the X-Files. We joined a fairly big group of people, from all over the world, from Canada to Brazil.

Split Walking Tour was full of facts, but fun as well

Danko was a very engaging guide, and full of quality knowledge, but he made it entertaining as well. For example, he told us exactly who the bishop Gregory of Nin was, but also speculated that it could be Dumbledore or Gandalf. Since no-one really knew what Gregory of Nin looked like, the sculptor Ivan Mestrovic based it on himself!

The Golden Gate is a fantastic place to start. It is one of the finest facades of the world-famous Diocletian’s Palace, a true Wonder of the World. Diocletian’s Palace was built as a retirement villa for the Roman emperor Diocletian, who was the only Roman emperor ever to retire from the post. After he died, it was abandoned. However, an invasion of the nearby city of Salona resulted in the residents of Salona seeking refuge behind the palace walls.

Ever since that date, the palace has been lived in by normal everyday people. They still live inside its walls even today. Funnily enough, it seems that it is the poorer people that live inside, which seems odd being as though it is such an iconic location. I suppose it must be because of all of the tourists wandering around. Danko had lots of pictures and maps, and the like, to give some visual help to his explanations.

Not just the sights, you’ll learn about Croatian culture

Just inside, we were shown the area where guards would have put people when they were deciding whether to let them through or not. He joked that it was the pigeons’ job these days to do this. Walking down the narrow street, Danko told us everything from the original purposes of the buildings to their current uses. He even threw in a lot of cultural knowledge about Croatia, such as their sporting habits, and how wedding crashing is a popular pastime here.

Game of Thrones was also filmed in Split, so the tour contained lots of filming knowledge, important for TV fans. The streets are amazingly atmospheric to wander around. He pointed out the shields above the doors that were the family crests of rich families over the ages. Some are well documented, while others are more mysterious, including an Italian one with a horse. We also passed a bank that was built around Roman ruins!

If you only have a short time in Split, it is a perfect way to see the highlights

The most impressive part of Diocletian’s Palace is the huge open courtyard, known as the Peristyle. We sat on the steps for a while as Danko told us all about it, from the original Egyptian sphinx statue, and why some of the pillars are different colours. Basically, the side where the wealthier people congregated had better quality materials.

The balcony at the far end of the Peristyle was where Diocletian would have addressed his subjects from. The vestibule just behind it was designed especially so that the light would have hit the doorframe at a certain time, to produce a mystical effect when Diocletian made his entrance. The spectacular acoustics would have done much to enhance his voice as well. It was like a Roman Wizard of Oz!

To highlight how good the acoustics were, we stopped to watch a performance of Klappa music. Klappa is a very traditional form of Croatian music, sang acapella, though there was a bit of light guitar accompaniment. The performance had been timed especially for our tour group, in the hope we’d buy a CD after their moving performance. Amy asked Danko what they were singing so emotionally about, to be told it was about inviting a woman to sit on their lap, or something along those lines! So romantic!

Some of it really does need explanation

At the back of the palace area, there are lots of interesting ruins amongst the residential homes that have been built ramshackle around them. There is an area where the emperor would have eaten his meals. Someone asked if it was a vomitorium, and Danko explained that a vomitorium was a large exit from a stadium or amphitheatre. We knew all about that from our time spent in Vomitorium 3 of the Olympic Stadium! There are also some remarkably well preserved mosaic floors.

We then went underneath the palace, to the basement cellars. These only got cleaned out in living memory. They are particularly interesting as the shape of them would have matched exactly the rooms in the palace directly above them, which do not exist anymore. Some of it is blocked off for tourists. However, the centre is a bustling set of shops, mainly traders selling tourist trinkets. Split is apparently known for its coral products, though good luck telling the difference between a real one and a fake one.

The tour is given in two parts

The Diocletian’s Palace tour ends just outside the bronze gate, on the Riva. The Riva is a gorgeous mediterranean style promenade filled with alfresco cafes. However, if you have time, it is worth staying on for the second part of the Split Walking Tour. You’ll hear about the area that visitors were once quarantined before being allowed in, to prevent the spread of infections. You can see here how buildings have been added to the structure over the years. It is really interesting to see.

After heading down the Riva, with its palm trees and sea views, and seeing where Sigmund Freud once stayed, we headed back inside the walls to Narodni Trg. Very grand and appealing, it has a beautiful City Clock which has all twenty four hours on it! Venetian palaces with renaissance detailing, and a famous independent bookshop that sadly recently closed down, are other highlights of the square.

There is a really cool ancient well that Danko showed us next. He told us it was perfectly drinkable water, as proved by a woman who turned up to fill up several bottles while we stood there. There is lots of cool mostly black and white graffiti around it, including that of the local football team Hadjuk Split, which is everywhere in the city.

A tour suitable for everyone – from independent travellers to day trippers

Overall, despite being independent travellers who dislike group tours, we feel that Split is one of those areas that is definitely best served by an introductory tour. It will make your further exploration of the city far more rewarding. As a result of the tour, you will pick out so many details that would have otherwise escaped you. Split Walking Tours showed themselves to be a thoroughly professional company, with a number of heavily-praised tour guides. You can turn up to their office, just inside the Golden Gate, to discuss tour options.

Is there anywhere else that you think is particularly suited to an introductory walking tour before exploring on your own? Or do you prefer group travel? 

Ivan Mestrovic Gallery, Split

Have you heard of Ivan Mestrovic? Chances are that if you’re not Croatian or a sculpture aficionado, you haven’t. Mestrovic is immensely popular in his Croatian homeland, and his works can be found all over the Balkans. Indeed, not a day seemed to go by in our month or so travelling around the Balkans without coming across another example of his genius. Therefore, when we got the opportunity to visit the Ivan Mestrovic Gallery in a large house in Split designed by Mestrovic himself, we jumped at the chance.

Apart from at the gallery, here are some more of the works of Mestrovic that we have seen on our travels. They include Victor at Belgrade Fortress, Marin Drzic in Dubrovnik, Gregory of Nin in Split and the Racic Family Mausoleum in Cavtat. American readers may be more familiar with Spearman in Chicago.

OK, back to the Ivan Mestrovic Gallery

The Ivan Mestrovic Gallery in Split is housed in a stunning house that was built for and designed by Mestrovic himself. However, he didn’t end up staying there much. Instead, it became the home for a large collection of his intense and provocative sculptures. When entering, you’ll be given a little guide leaflet that explains about some of the more interesting pieces in the collection. The building is reached via a large staircase. This staircase gives unobstructed views of the beautiful large house as you climb it.

At the top is a large garden area that is now home to a number of large Mestrovic works. Subjects include naked women and a Cyclops! A room on the lower level certainly has the wow factor, containing several huge stone statues of women, that look Egyptian pharaoh style. We had loads of fun getting pictures of us in different positions amongst them, so we could get this animation!

The house is a stunning location for the artworks

Entering the house via another grand staircase, you come to the house proper. Some of the rooms look rather homely, but in the main it is more like a museum these days. Some works are based on his family members, whilst many others are based on religious themes. Interestingly, we discovered that Mestrovic often based the appearances of religious figures on himself and his family. He even modelled the famous Gregory of Nin statue outside the Golden Gate on himself!

The views out to sea are as beautiful as the artworks within. It is such a stunning location. Upstairs is more of the same. The setting added to our enjoyment of the amazing works of art. They masterfully show the most subtle emotions, as well as some rather abstract designs. The balcony at the top is worth the admission cost alone.

The whole museum seems to encourage creativity as we spotted a few other people doing some unusual photo opportunities. A large group of cyclists were doing a synchronised jump on the staircase, whilst a different woman threw her arms in the air to mimic one of the sculptures. We made the most of the surroundings by having a picnic in the grounds before we left.

Don’t miss the Kastelet

Also included in your ticket is the nearby Kastelet, which is down on the seafront. The Kastelet is a fortified home from the 1500s that Mestrovic had bought especially to house his Life of Christ cycle of wood reliefs. He spent half of his career making these, over many many years. Strangely, he didn’t make them in order, but seemingly randomly. It is interesting to see how his style changed throughout the years, and this provides a great opportunity to see the development easily. They are housed in a chapel just off from a gorgeous courtyard.

Do you have a favourite sculptor? Is Ivan Mestrovic a name that you know?

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Three Island Tour from Kairos Travel, Trogir

When visiting any seaside location, one of the top things to do is a boat ride. For the historic town of Trogir, on Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast, this is especially true. Kairos Travel are located just along the waterfront, and have a fantastic array of trips on offer. We were lucky enough to go on the Three Island Tour from Trogir – a full day of fun in the sun.

We made sure we were early down to the harbour, as we were excited for the day ahead. Our boat was called Plisivac, with two levels of seating. Of course, we wanted to be up on the top deck for the sun and the views! The boat leaves Trogir at 9.15am. We stopped at a couple of other places to pick up more passengers and were soon on our way to the first of the three islands.

Palinka is a traditional greeting drink in the Baltic regions – even at 10am!

As soon as we were on the seas, the captain came round with a traditional greeting drink of palinka. He wasn’t short changing us on the amount of palinka served, but I wish he had. It was so strong, we couldn’t manage it without a burnt throat. Shortly after, they brought out the promised all-inclusive drinks. The drinks – wine, orange cordial, and water, are all served in jugs which you could serve yourselves from into a plastic cup. Not exactly classy, but it kept us hydrated throughout the trip! A nice touch was some snacks that were brought out occasionally too. They went like hotcakes!

The sea views are rather dramatic at times, with tiny little islands jutting out of the Adriatic Sea. It was at our first stop, the Blue Lagoon, that the slide made its appearance. The Blue Lagoon is technically known as Krknjasi Bay near to the island of Drvenik. It was a lovely day today, though people had been saying that the water might be too cold to swim in. However, this didn’t stop many people on the boat from plunging down the slide into the deep blue sea. Indeed, we soon joined them.

Don’t let anyone put you off plunging into the crystal clear waters

The water wasn’t all that cold at all really, and the speed at which we entered it probably helped us to acclimatise rather quickly. The water is extremely clear, but we couldn’t see any fish where we were. It was great fun, and we spent around half an hour there before the slide was packed away and we were on our way again. About twenty minutes later, we arrived at destination two – the fishing village of Maslinica, on the island of Solta, where we spent the next 90 minutes.

Maslinica is a quaint little seaside town with crystal clear waters and shoals of fish in the harbour area. Strangely, the tourist signposts point to various things, with garbage being one of them! Old examples of fishing equipment are displayed nearby. It is completely free time, though there isn’t much to do apart from relax. Many of our boatmates just took refuge in a nearby bar until it was time to board the boat again, whilst others took to the pebble beach.

Maslinica is a place where stress does not exist

We started by exploring the village, admiring the pretty paint splattered effect that decorated many of the doors and benches. The bays are supremely picturesque as we strolled around to an area where some people were skimming stones. It is a great place for photos and Amy couldn’t resist a dip in the clear water as kayakers passed by lazily. The boats look great in the harbour too, including one randomly called My Bunny! Eventually, we settled on the pebble beach and lazily whiled our time away.

We sailed for around an hour, in possibly the quietest part of the day. It was a wake up call in fact when we arrived at our final of the three island stops – Duga Bay, on the island of Ciovo. After docking, we walked the gangplank onto the island, as the captain held up a sign to ensure nobody failed to understand what time we had to be back onboard for. We had just under two hours, and that included our first stop, which was for the included lunch at Restaurant Duga.

A tasty lunch is included in the trip

We all filed into a restaurant by the harbour, with an outdoor seating area that has stunning views of the bay. The seating is long wooden tables and benches, and very informal, giving you chance to meet some of your fellow passengers. The food was surprisingly tasty, considering it was an all-inclusive and basic meal. It was just chicken, bread and cabbage. Fish and vegetarian options are available. However, it kept on coming and coming and we couldn’t get enough of it. The waiter ended up dumping far more on our plates than we could even manage. Locals had set up a stall by the exit selling figs and palinka.

The rest of the time at Duga Bay was for sunbathing and swimming. There is only a small area of rocky beach, but it goes down far so you can easily find a secluded part. We sat and sunbathed for half an hour, before getting ready to board the boat for the final time, for the trip back to Trogir. The hour long journey back started off very sleepily with everyone enjoying the peacefulness. However, all of a sudden one woman broke into song. The other women around us, presumably Croatian, all knew the words. Soon enough, we had a sing-song going on around us! It was quite cute watching everyone joining in, although it was probably the least rock and roll thing we’ve ever seen.

An all rounder trip that will please everybody

Arriving back at Trogir, it felt like a day well spent. We had most definitely recharged our batteries after a hectic day sightseeing in the old town the previous day. The Three Island Tour is a great all-rounder that should suit everybody in your party. It has a scenic boat ride, the adrenalin of plunging into the Adriatic Sea, a quaint fishing village to explore, a tasty lunch, and time to relax in paradise. If you’re lucky like us, you may even be treated to an impromptu Croatian folk concert!

Kairos Travel are a helpful company who strive to ensure a great experience. They followed up with us a few days later to ensure that we had a great time, and come highly recommended. We also love their tagline – ‘do what you love, and do it often’. There is a lesson there for everybody….

Do you like the idea of the Three Island Tour? Have you got any boat trip stories to share? 

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The Ultimate Guide to Planning a Trip to Korcula

One of the most beautiful and underrated gems in the Dalmatian Coast area is Korcula Island. With its fortified walls, Korcula Town makes the ideal base for your stay. Korcula’s history dates back over 3,000 years. Its most treasured historical fact indeed may or may not be true – was world famous explorer Marco Polo born there? No-one knows for sure, but we do know that Marco Polo loved Korcula, and you’ll see why for yourself should you visit. Our travel guide to Korcula will tell you everything you need to know to plan an amazing trip.

THINGS TO DO IN KORCULA TOWN

Wander around the Old Town – Wow, if there is any place more photogenic than this small town, then take me there now. It has everything – sun, sea, beautiful buildings and history galore. It feels like a journey to the past. Shoppers will love it too, with a large number of independent artists and jewellers setting up shop in cosy little areas of the Old Town. Just stroll around the cobbled streets, and stop at one of the many restaurants where you can relax for hours. The fortifications look like chess pieces!

St Mark’s Cathedral – Dominating the main square is St Mark’s Cathedral, with naked and squatting figures of Adam and Eve on either side of the doorway. It was built in the 1400s from Korcula limestone, which is apparently what the White House is built from. The cathedral itself is a nice, if rather small, cathedral, with a painting behind the altar by Tintoretto. Outside, look for the carved elephant and a mermaid! Don’t miss the baptistery to check out the modern sculptures, including one by Ivan Mestrovic.

Climb St Mark’s Cathedral Tower – You can climb the tower which is so narrow, that it has a traffic light system to regulate when people can go up and down! If you brave the climb, the views at the top are some of the best you will ever see.

Pupnatska Luca Beach – Around half an hour’s drive from Korcula Town is the best beach on the island. As like most of the Dalmatian Coast, it is a pebble beach, but situated in a stunning cove. The crystal waters are great for snorkelling in, as you can see shoals of fish sheltering here. Be careful of sea urchins, mind you!

Have a Cocktail on top of a tower – The Massimo Cocktail Bar is the best place to watch the sunset in Korcula – it is situated on the turret of one of the towers that make up the town’s stunning fortifications. They actually send the drinks up to the top of the tower via a pulley system from the bar area below! It is just a shame that the quality of the drinks don’t match the quality of the location.

Korcula Town Museum – Based in a palace from the 1500s, the museum is scattered over four floors. Compared to most museums, it is rather like the jumble sale of museums. The ground floor room has hundreds of stone fragments from ancient to communist just lying about. Some of the highlights include a stone tablet from the 3rd century BC, which shows that the Ancient Greeks were on Korcula at the time, and the oldest legal document in Croatia. Don’t miss the recreation of the palace kitchen on the very top floor!

Marco Polo Museum – There are seven life-size waxwork tableaux which show the key scenes of Marco Polo’s life. The scenes are quite well done, and will inspire your adventurous spirit. You’ll learn a lot about Marco Polo and his travels through places like Egypt, and most famously China where he worked for Kublai Khan. When he returned to Venice, he was imprisoned due to a war that was going on. Whilst in his prison cell, he wrote a book about his travels. People thought he was making up things like gunpowder and ice cream! Find out more here.

St Mark’s Treasury Abbey – Spend half an hour wandering around the former Abbey palace, perusing their excellent collection of religious icons and Dalmatian art. Sculptures of bishops, hundreds of reliquaries, and a famous polyptych by Blaz Trogiranin called The Virgin, are some of the items on display. Lots of religious robes, paintings, and some fantastic views of this characterful old town from the upstairs windows are also highlights. The museum deserves more visitors than it gets.

See a Moreska sword dance – This traditional sword dance dates back 500 years, and is only performed here on the island. You can see a performance in the summer, on Friday nights. Yes, they use real swords, so there is a serious element of danger in there!

Listen to Duo Sol – This amazing duo play traditional Croatian folk music in the area of the Land Gate. Their music is atmospheric and heartfelt, and gives a joyous atmosphere to the town. Stay to watch them for a while. Their CDs are available for sale in between songs, if you want to replicate the experience at home.

Vapor Gallery – Korcula is filled with artists. It is only natural in a place as beautiful as this. Many have set up galleries where you can purchase their works. If you only have time for one, make it this one, housed atmospherically within the town’s fortifications.

HOW TO GET TO KORCULA

From overseas? The nearest airports are Dubrovnik and Split. To find a cheap flight from your nearest airport, click here.

From within Croatia? It is easy to get to Korcula by either bus or ferry from both Dubrovnik and Split. As an island without road access to the mainland, you will need to get a ferry over. The buses are the cheapest method, and they include a car ferry where you will get the chance to stretch your legs. Check Bus Croatia for buses, and Jadrolinija for ferry timetables. It is also fairly easy to get to Korcula from most other places on the Dalmatian Coast.

By car? Renting a car is not advised in Korcula. The old town is traffic free, and parking can be an issue. Unless you are desperate to get to the furthest possible corners of the island, it isn’t worth it. However, to get a good price for car rental, check here.

WHERE TO STAY IN KORCULA

Luxury? Hotel Korsal is a romantic place to stay overlooking the sea, and next to a public beach. It is close to the port, ideal for those arriving by ferry. Well worth splurging for the sea view rooms. Book here.

Mid-range? House Dijana is an exceptionally charming B&B in the heart of the old town. The relaxing stone patio area is perfect for chilling out when not exploring the area. Book here.

Budget? Ante’s House is situated on the hill, with unbelievable coastal views. The outdoor terrace is a place you could while away several hours easily. The owner, Ante, is extremely friendly, and often greets guests with a glass of wine from his own winery. Book here.

Cheaper and more authentic? Try Airbnb, where you can find some unusual and fantastic homestays in more traditional surroundings. Click our special link to receive £25 off your first stay!

Free? Couchsurfing is a vibrant community of over 14 million world travellers, who host others on their travels.

WHERE TO EAT IN KORCULA

Dalmatian food deserves its own post, so stay tuned. However, we recommend sticking with the traditional local restaurants whilst in Korcula.

Special occasion? Fillipi Restaurant offers a gourmet touch to traditional Dalmatian dishes. The breathtaking sea views will make dining here an occasion to remember.

Mid-range? Aterina is a great choice for fresh fish dishes, with its seaside location making you feel that they have cooked it directly from the sea! Don’t miss the posip wine. Posip is a light bodied dry white wine which can only be found on Korcula.

Cheap and cheerful? Fish ‘n’ Go is the Korcula take on the fish and chip shop. It is a casual place with outdoor seats, and offers decent food. It isn’t cheap by western standards, but Korcula is lacking in good budget options. Our cheapest meal came from sharing a pizza at Pizzeria Leut, ideally situated in the Old Town.

OTHER TIPS FOR YOUR VISIT TO KORCULA

How to pronounce Korcula? Korr-chu-la

English is spoken very widely on Korcula. You won’t have any trouble communicating. However, it is always worth downloading Google Translate just in case!

It is best to climb the tower of St Mark’s Cathedral early in the morning. The views will be better, and the lack of space makes this one you want to see without the crowds.

Korcula is a very walkable town. Most of its main attractions are within easy walking distance of each other. In fact, many of them are based right around the main square!

If you like Baroque music, time your visit for early September to catch the Korkyra Baroque Festival.

The best months to visit are June and September. The months in the middle can be crowded and too hot. If you visit out-of-season, be prepared for poor transportation options to get to the island from elsewhere.

Don’t forget your camera. Korcula is an immensely photogenic place.

There is a Konzum supermarket near to the Land Gate. Konzum is one of Croatia’s top supermarkets, and they will sell everything you need to prepare a meal, or for lunch supplies.

There are very few fast food options on Korcula. If you are on an ultra-tight budget and staying for a number of days, you may want to look for accommodation with cooking facilities.

Don’t be afraid of getting lost. The town is so small that you would find this extremely difficult. Yet, there are many cute side streets that are begging to be explored.

The town can be easily seen in one day. However, it has the sort of peaceful atmosphere that will make you want to linger for longer. Factor this into your plans if they are inflexible, and don’t base your decision on attractions alone.

If you wish to see more of the island than Korcula Town, you can rent a bike in the old town. There are plenty of beaches for sunbathing, and you can also snorkel. Kayak hire is available from the beach on the west side of the old town.

It is easy to get a ferry to another destination on the Dalmatian coastline from Korcula. Try Dubrovnik, Hvar, or Split. The islands of Mljet and Orebic are also good options.

Has this travel guide to Korcula helped you to plan your trip? Anything else that you would like to know?

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The Ultimate Guide to Planning a Trip to Plitvice Lakes National Park in Croatia

Plitvice Lakes – a true wonder of the world, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979. Its forest setting, no less than sixteen clear turquoise lakes, and umpteen mesmerising waterfalls and cascades, make this one of the top natural wonders of the world. It was the first national park in Croatia, and has over one million visitors each year.

With that being the case, you require a plan of action to make the most of a visit to this truly amazing place. Here is our comprehensive guide to a trip to Plitvice Lakes National Park.

Things To Do in Plitvice Lakes National Park

Planet Full Of Love’s Top 5 things to do in Plitvice Lakes – 1.Upper Lakes, 2. Lower Lakes, 3. Boat Ride on Lake Kosjak, 4. Dinner at Licka Kuca, 5. Hike up to the Vidikovac view point.

UPPER LAKES – Whilst the less visited of the two, the Upper Lakes are the most beautiful. Start your trip with a visit here, and you will likely be alone for good stretches. A rare bit of solitude in such a wondrous setting will make for memories that will last forever.

LOWER LAKES – This is where all of the tour groups head for, so can become unbearably crowded. However, don’t let that put you off. The constantly changing landscape is stunning, and you can see the best of the cascades here.

LAKE KOSJAK – The largest lake in the park separates the Upper Lakes and the Lower Lakes. You can get a free, scenic boat ride across, with your park admission ticket.

VELIKI SLAP – The main reason for visiting the Lower Lakes is the Great Waterfall. The largest of the park’s waterfalls, Veliki Slap is truly awesome.

TRAILS – There are eight trails to choose from, depending on how much time you have and what you’d like to see. If you’d like to see everything, and why wouldn’t you, then choose Route H. Or, do as we did, and do both Route B and Route E. Combining the two covers pretty much the same ground as H, but it means you can start from either entrance and don’t have to wait for the land trains, which can be hit and miss at times.

VIDIKOVAC – If you want the ultimate photo spot, then take an unsignposted hike up from Veliki Slap to this amazing viewing point. You will likely be the only people there, and this is where you can get those postcard photos of Plitvice Lakes. It is stunning.

BAT CAVE – A worthwhile detour from the Lower Lakes, the Bat Cave is an atmospheric climb down to some impossibly steep stairs. They put you at one of the best vantage points in the park to see the picturesque cascades. It can also be used as a shortcut through parts of the trails, but we’d recommend not missing out on the trails.

HIKING – The Medvedak Hiking Trail will get you a more solitary nature experience. If you are a wildlife lover, it will give you a better chance to spot animals. Medvedak is actually the Croatian word for bear, and you are sure to hear their calls as you walk the forest trails.

CYCLING – The International Mountain Biking Association has produced trails around the area. Degenija Tours offer guided cycling tours that include amazing views, swimming, and a glass of wine!

HORSEBACK RIDING – Konjicki Klub is a small ranch in nearby Rakovica, where you can organise a horseback ride through some sensational forest and nature areas.

BARAC CAVES – If you want to experience some totally dark caves, and see real bats, then the nearby Barac Caves are a far better bet than the Bat Cave. Only about ten minutes drive away from the lakes, you can visit via a guided tour.

How to Get to Plitvice Lakes National Park

If you are planning a trip from outside of Croatia, the best places to fly to would be Zagreb, Zadar or Rijeka. It is also possible to get to Plitvice Lakes from Split, and even Dubrovnik, though journey times would be off-putting. Check out the cheapest flights to these airports from your area at Skyscanner, the best place to find cheap flights.

If you are already in Croatia, you can reach Plitvice Lakes easily by car. Do be careful of reckless drivers around here, however. You can hire a car for your trip here.

For budget travellers, the public transport options are small but very doable. You can easily get a coach to take you to Plitvice Lakes from Zagreb, Zadar, or Sibenik, amongst other locations. The best site to plan your journey by public transport is Bus Croatia. The buses stop at both entrance 1 and entrance 2 of the park.

Where to Stay in Plitvice Lakes National Park

Luxury? HOTEL DEGENIJA – A small hotel, but with great service. This hotel offers just the right amount of luxury, with comfortable modern rooms, a cocktail bar, and a brand new swimming pool with panoramic views.

Plitvice Hotel – Located within the national park, this hotel is unbeatable for location. As a perk of staying there, you can get your one-day ticket stamped at the reception to give you a second day on the trails for free.

To book a nice hotel for your trip to Plitvice Lakes National Park, click here.

Budget? House Jelena – If you fancy staying in a chalet, this guesthouse will be a great fit. They have lush gardens on site, perfect for relaxing in after a day of hiking.

Looking for something even cheaper? Try Airbnb, where you can find some unusual and fantastic homestays in more traditional surroundings. Click our special link to receive £25 off your first stay!

Free? Couchsurfing is a vibrant community of over 14 million world travellers, who host others on their travels.

Where to Eat in Plitvice Lakes National Park

LICKA KUCA – Make sure to eat at this famous restaurant that evokes the ambience of a traditional house in the area. Order the Platter ‘Licka Kuca’, which consists of ‘peka’ style meat. This involves being slow-cooked over hot coals under an iron cover, and is an authentic meal. The hearty platter is served with two meats, potatoes, and vegetables. Pricey, but worth the splurge.

VISIBABA RESTORAN – This clean and cosy restaurant has both indoor and outdoor seating. It is rather less touristy than Licka Kuca, so you will likely be dining with other locals rather than tourists.

RESTAURANT ETHNO HOUSES – This wooden restaurant located within the national park also offers typical Croatian cuisine.

Other Tips For Your Trip to Plitvice Lakes National Park

How do you pronounce Plitvice Lakes? Pleet-veet-seh Lakes.

To avoid crowds, plan to be inside the park the moment it opens. If you can’t do this, then it will quieten down a bit in the late afternoon. The vast majority of the ‘crowds’ are made up of large tour groups, so you need to avoid the times when they are at their height.

For a pleasant experience, we can’t recommend enough avoiding the summer months. The crowds are insane, and the boardwalks are narrow with no railings. You will spend more time watching your step, than enjoying the otherworldly scenery. Add to this the fact that tickets are at their most expensive during these months, so you will pay more for a less enjoyable time.

As far as scenery goes, there is no bad time to visit Plitvice Lakes. Every season will have its own charm, and you will be sure to want to return to see it in a different season.

Take a packed lunch, and plenty of water. There is very little on offer within the lakes area, and what there is can be overpriced.

Make sure to try some of the more remote trails. If you just do a short tour of the Lower Lakes, be aware that you will be unlikely to experience Plitvice Lakes as it should be. That is, peaceful nature with unbelievable views.

Wear suitable footwear. The boardwalks often take you directly over the crystal clear water. Whilst this is awesome, the fact that you will often be snaking your way through large groups does pose a risk of falling in the water. Good footwear will at least reduce the risk. You’ll also be doing a lot of walking.

There is very little shade in the park. Be aware of the weather report, and plan accordingly if rain is forecast. Also, on a sunny day, be sure to take a hat and sun protection.

The various trails on offer take between two and eight hours. However, it is well worth allowing at least a full day to experience Plitvice Lakes. You will find it extremely difficult to tear yourself away after a couple of hours.

There is an option to buy a two-day park ticket, which is a good saving over two single day tickets. If you have a reasonably good level of fitness, you can easily cover the entire park in one day. If you would prefer to only walk for a few hours per day, then this will offer good value.

Plitvice Lakes is famous for its resident brown bears, and other wildlife including lynx, deers, wolves, and foxes. However, fortunately or unfortunately depending on your outlook, you are extremely unlikely to see any of them. They tend to keep well away from the trails, and the trails only cover a small area of the expansive national park.

Luggage storage is free of charge, in locked storage containers near to the entrances. Don’t lug around more than you need for the day, as it will detract from your enjoyment.

You can enter Plitvice Lakes National Park at either Entrance 1 or Entrance 2. Entrance 2 is the quieter of the two, so would be the best choice. However, if you are staying closer to Entrance 1, it is the time that you arrive that will have most bearing on the queues.

No swimming is allowed in Plitvice Lakes. If swimming is important to you, you may wish to consider the nearby Krka Waterfalls.

It is possible to enter the national park outside of official opening hours free of charge. However, we would not recommend this. Firstly, the park is not well illuminated at night, so you won’t see much. Secondly, you need a ticket to use the boats and land trains, which are a big part of the experience.

A guided tour is not necessary. In fact, for us it would detract from the experience. The tour groups that we saw were just marched from sight to sight. If you really want a tour, it is easy to find one.

Has this guide helped you to plan your trip to Plitvice Lakes National Park? Anything else that you would like to know? 

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We recently spent just under a month in Croatia, and could have easily spent much longer. The country has an enviable climate, and a tranquil atmosphere, even in its most bustling tourism hotspots. With tourism getting a big boost recently from being used as a filming location for Game of Thrones, it feels like the secret is truly out. However, with a world-class coastline and culture in droves, you don’t have to go far to find something just as amazing, but without the crowds. We were just thinking just what it was that made Croatia such an appealing destination. As a result, we put together this short list of our five favourite things about Croatia.

The stunning old towns

Of course, Dubrovnik is the poster boy for old towns in Croatia. Indeed, it is one of the finest in the world. The crowds, especially when cruise ships are in dock, can sometimes be stifling. However, there is such an amazing atmosphere about the place that the crowds do not detract from your enjoyment as much as in other places. Another of our favourites was Split. There, the entire old town is built inside the former palace of Roman Emperor Diocletian. It is a fairly unique place that will blow your mind. Most cities in Croatia have an old town, however, and they are all beautiful. Trogir is superb, whilst we’d also recommend you check out Hvar, Korcula, Sibenik and Zadar before you leave.

The Dalmatian Coast

It has the appeal of island hopping in Greece or the Caribbean, but arguably it is much easier. Indeed, the Dalmatian Coast is a sensational place to explore. Starting in the south with the wondrous Dubrovnik and making your way north, you’ll find no end of destinations to add to your itinerary. What makes it even more convenient is that all of the islands are located relatively close to the mainland. Other must-see attractions like Split, are actually on the mainland, but still offer that seaside experience. Trogir offers both, since the old town is on a fortified island linked to the mainland by a bridge!

The natural scenery

One of the most breathtaking natural landscapes in the world can be found in Plitvice Lakes National Park. We can’t recommend it highly enough. The scenery is like something from a science-fiction movie. However, it isn’t alone in Croatia, for you can find such natural wonders everywhere. Even in touristy Dubrovnik, you are just a short boat ride from the bunny filled island of Lokrum. Over in party central Hvar, a speedboat can have you at the Pakleni Islands in minutes, where you can feel like a castaway as the boat leaves you behind, relying on it returning to pick you up again at the agreed time.

The cuisine

We love the Mediterranean diet, and food and drink is a big part of the Croatian experience. We started our journey in Dubrovnik. Everything was so pricey that we pretty much lived off the ubiquitous yet wonderful cevapi. However, as you continue your journey along the coast, you’ll find the freshest seafood, and a warm welcome wherever you go. We were lucky enough to be invited into the home of a Croatian family, where we were treated to a wonderful meal, including the local speciality of octopus salad. Croatian wine is making waves around the world too, and we had spectacular experiences at Skar Winery in Dubrovnik, and Putalj Winery in Split. In the vineyards of the latter were found the origins of the Californian wine Zinfandel.

The culture

Croatians have a healthy appreciation for their culture. It is apparent everywhere from the busiest cities to the smallest villages. Overhearing a practice session of klappa music, traditional Dalmatian singing, from an open window near to Sibenik Cathedral, was a true privilege. Spending any length of time in Croatia, you are sure to come across a wedding. Croatian weddings are perhaps the most joyous occasions you will witness, complete with processions and boisterous singing. From elderly nuns creating intricate lace from agave plants in Hvar, to being the home of the necktie, the Croatians delight in sharing their heritage and you will love every moment.

If you’ve been there yourself, why not share your own favourite things about Croatia in the comments?

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Sometimes, the best experiences are found off the beaten track – Putalj Winery, Split

Exploring the wondrous lived-in ruins of Split, it was hard to tear ourselves away from the ancient history. However, we are glad we did – to explore another side of history at Putalj Winery. One that goes back a thousand years itself! Our journey started outside the Golden Gate of Diocletian’s Palace, where we were being picked up by our friendly driver in a BMW minivan.

We were then whisked away for a guided wine tasting experience at Putalj Winery. The whole thing was almost like a social occasion, with seven other guests. Four were from the USA, with a group of three from New Zealand. The first stop on the Winemakers’ Tour is a stunning location on a terrace on an idyllic hillside amongst the winery’s vineyards. The views are unbelievable. This really is a premium experience!

The host is the winemaker himself, Anton Kovac. After welcoming us, we were shown to a table each overlooking both the vineyards and the sea. We were given a glass of rose Plavac Mali wine each, along with enough bread and cheese to stop us getting too carried away so early in the day! In fact, we were given the entire bottle to drink as much as we wanted. Bearing in mind it was only around 1.30pm, and we aren’t huge drinkers, this was kind of daunting!

Now this is how to have a history lesson…

We had at least one extra glass, but had to be careful since there was plenty more wine to come! As we sat enjoying the peaceful ambience, Anton discussed the history of the vineyard, a family business that went back generations. In fact, the vineyards probably date back a thousand years! The family’s story is a fascinating one, which was nearly ruined by a couple of twists in fate.

Firstly, there was a disease that struck the vineyard in 1910 that lasted for twenty years. The family members emigrated to look for work, left helpless by it. Secondly came the onset of communism in the country. As a result, the family lost two generations of winemaking skills. Luckily, times changed just in the nick of time, and Anton was able to return the family business of making top quality wines to the forefront once again.

Imagine becoming world famous over night…

Putalj Winery received an unexpected boost in 2001, when it was found by grapevine geneticist Carole Meredith that the grapes that make the famous Zinfandel wine in California are genetically identical to the ones found here. Therefore, the area could be claimed to be the true birthplace of Zinfandel wine. There is only a small area of land which has the required conditions to make this, so it really is a marvel of nature. Putalj is the name of the area where the vineyards are located. Over the hill, there is a totally different climate!

The guests are welcome to ask questions. This resulted in us finding out how the label was designed (it depicts the water source, a corkscrew, and a tree root), and the pitfalls of bad weather. 15-20,000 bottles of wine are produced here, and they are only found locally. Either here at the winery, or in local restaurants. Even olives are grown here, which result in some premium olive oil produced on-site as well. Afterwards, we were able to inspect the vineyards.

Drinking from the barrel has never been so elegant

Once we were all ready, we were driven to Anton’s house for the next part of the tour. The actual winery is based here. Inside, there are many fermentation tanks, containing different types of his wines. After explaining how everything worked, Anton started to hand out the samples. They weren’t sample sized, by any means. They were full glasses of wine, served directly from the fermentation tanks!

He told us that we didn’t have to drink the whole glass, and to pour the remainder down a drain in the room. However, not many of us took him up on this, and made sure we finished every drop, since it was so delicious! One of them was called the ‘danger wine’ due to its strength! After numerous glasses of wine, we were already pretty tiddled to be fair!

However, the finale was being taken down into a rustic and cosy dining room, with barrels on the wall. We all sat at our own table. Amazingly, despite how much wine we had already been plied with, Anton asked us which our favourite was, and provided us with a bottle each to drink over a tasty plate of food. Amy went for the rose. I went for the ‘danger wine’! It was served with different cheeses, and plenty of smoked ham, all beautifully presented.

Fresh olive oils almost as good as the wines

There was also the opportunity to try some of the delicious olive oils they produce here. We unfortunately missed an even fresher batch that was nearly ready, since Anton told us there is nothing like the taste of totally fresh olive oil. It was a really nice convivial atmosphere, with everyone having a good chat. Conversation flowing freely, especially with how much wine had been consumed. It was really quite disappointing when the driver appeared again, to take us all back to Split. It felt rather sudden to be honest, with how the day was flowing.

Normally, this experience takes place in the evening. Indeed, it did feel like a night out, and was rather disorientating when we left in the blazing sunshine just before 5pm! Back in Split, we returned to the Peristyle of Diocletian’s Palace. It really is an astonishing place, even through now-bleary eyes. However, this is not all that Split has to offer. For one of the best experiences that you can have in Croatia, contact Putalj Winery. It is an evening out that you will never forget!

Have you been to any good wineries on your travels? Let us know in the comments…

The Ultimate Guide to Planning a Trip to Sibenik

Sibenik is a small city on Croatia’s Dalmatian coast, which could well be its next top tourist destination. With a UNESCO protected cathedral, medieval architecture, and even some Game of Thrones locations, it has all you need for a romantic short stay. It is also a perfect location for day trips or moving on to many other stunning destinations. Check out our full travel guide to Sibenik, to help you plan an amazing trip.

THINGS TO DO IN SIBENIK

Planet Full Of Love’s Top 5 Things to Do in Sibenik – 1. Soak up the atmosphere in the Main Square, and admire the carved heads, 2. Visit St James Cathedral, 3. Visit St Michael’s Fortress for the views, 4. Listen to the Dalmatian Singers, 5. Take a stroll around the Medieval Garden

ST JAMES CATHEDRAL – By far the main sight in Sibenik, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. You cannot visit Sibenik without a trip here. The masterpiece of Croatia’s famed architect Juraj Dalmatinac, it is the world’s largest Christian building made completely from stone. The shape on the inside is exactly the same as the outside, in another quirk. The highlight inside is the stunning carved stone in the baptistery. On the outside, look out for the 71 carved heads that line the walls. These are the medieval residents of Sibenik!

MEDIEVAL MONASTERY MEDITERRANEAN GARDEN – The garden of St Lawrence’s Monastery has been recreated expertly in a formal layout with herbs and medicinal plants in a cross shape. It is a lovely place for a romantic stroll. The garden is next to a cafe, and on busier days they may ask for a small fee to visit the garden if you aren’t buying anything from the cafe. The gardens are tiny, so don’t allocate too much time to see them.

ST MICHAEL’S FORTRESS – The most impressive of the many defence mechanisms around the city. It is quite a steep walk up from the cathedral. The views on the way up are worth the effort. It was here that the city was apparently born, in the Middle Ages. The town built around the fortress. If nothing else, the fortress offers some mesmerising views of the sea and across the water. A prestigious open-air ampitheatre can also be seen here. The walls around it allow every conceivable view of Sibenik and its surroundings.

LISTEN TO THE DALMATIAN SINGERS – Outside of the exit to St James Cathedral, you can often find a vocal harmony group singing traditional Croatian Klappa music. The blends of their voices are heavenly, and the setting of their free performances is hard to beat. They are recognised by UNESCO as intangible part of the world’s heritage, and they sell CDs between songs.

HOW TO GET TO SIBENIK

From overseas? The closest airports to Sibenik are Split and Zadar. To find a cheap flight from your country, click here.

By public transport? Sibenik has a decent bus station, with connections to many Croatian cities, as well as other European countries including Germany and Slovenia. Check Bus Croatia for timetables. You can also get a train from Split or Zagreb.

By car? Sibenik is very easy to reach via car, just off the A1 highway between Zagreb and Split. To find a good price for car rental, click here.

WHERE TO STAY IN SIBENIK

Luxury? Heritage Hotel Life Palace. Staying in this beautiful hotel will transport you to another time. It is a real, 500 year old palace! If your budget stretches to this centrally located hotel, we’d say go for it. Click here to book.

Mid-range? Apartment Secret Life is located in the heart of the old town. It is also tastefully decorated, with comfortable beds and friendly owners. Click here to book.

Budget? Hostel Splendido is the best option for backpackers just looking for a bed for the night. Free wifi and a kitchen mean all the basics are covered.

Cheaper and more authentic? Try Airbnb, where you can find some unusual and fantastic homestays in more traditional surroundings. Click our special link to receive £25 off your first stay!

Free? Couchsurfing is a vibrant community of over 14 million world travellers, who host others on their travels.

WHERE TO EAT IN SIBENIK

For local food, try Konoba Nostalgija. It has a romantic homely feel, and the staff love to recount the history of Sibenik to their guests. The food is excellent, though rather pricey.

For something cheaper, check out Restaurant Argola. They offer Italian dishes as well as some Croatian specialities. Even better, they have an outdoor seating area next to the seafront. A great budget seafront dining option.

OTHER TIPS FOR YOUR TRIP TO SIBENIK

How to pronounce Sibenik? Shi-beh-nik.

English is spoken very widely in Sibenik. You won’t have any trouble communicating. However, it is always worth downloading Google Translate just in case!

If you only have time for one attraction, make it St James Cathedral. It is a wonder to behold.

Sibenik is a very walkable city. It isn’t perhaps ideal for those with mobility issues, however, since the terrain is rather hilly.

There are actually four fortresses to visit in Sibenik. St Michael’s Fortress is the best, but if you have time, then check out all four. St John’s Fortress portrayed the fighting pit of Meereen in Game of Thrones.

Other Game of Thrones scenes were filmed in Sibenik. The cityscape doubles as the city of Braavos in the show, whilst St James Cathedral is used as the Iron Bank.

If you like festivals, turn up in June or July, for the International Children’s Festival. It has been going for over 50 years, and offers plenty of events for young at heart adults as well.

Sibenik’s highlights can easily be seen in one day. We’d recommend starting with St James Cathedral, see the Dalmatian singers, then head up to St Michael’s Fortess. On the way back down to the seafront, you can visit the Medieval Garden.

The most popular day trip from Sibenik is Krka National Park. It is like the little brother of Plitvice Lakes National Park. If you only want to visit one, go for Plitvice Lakes. You can get a direct bus to either from the bus station. It is easy to continue a tour of the Dalmatian Coast in either direction by getting a coach to Split, Trogir, or Zadar.

Other nearby attractions include Sokorlarski Raptor Centre, the Dalmatian Ethno Village, Solaris AquaPark, and Vina Rak for wine lovers.

Has this travel guide to Sibenik helped you to plan your trip? Anything else that you would like to know?

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This post contains affiliate links. By clicking them to purchase your flights, hotels, and car hire, the companies involved pay a small commission to us at no cost to yourself. This helps to keep us on the road, creating guides like this one. Thank you for using them!

Zadar Walking Tour: See the Pearl of the Adriatic with a local guide

In Zadar’s People’s Square, you’ll often find a man with a white umbrella. Yes, even when its not raining! This will be Sime, the charismatic tour guide who runs Zadar Walking Tour. If you see him, and you will if you’re in the square at 10am, 12pm or 6pm, you’re in for a treat. Zadar is a city with a rich history, and a warm culture. To see it on your own is a pleasure. To see it with Sime is to see the real Zadar.

As if to show the community spirit of Zadar,  we had the amusing spectacle of Sime’s postman interrupting his introductory talk with a parcel for him, in the middle of People’s Square! Sime is a fantastic guy, full of information and a great way of story telling. He’ll start by showing you something you’d never guess was there if you weren’t on the tour. It is a church in the back of a cafe, here on the square! He told us some really interesting things about it, including how early Christians made the Roman columns ‘holy’ by carving crosses into them, still visible today.

Even places we had seen before took on a new dimension

To our surprise, Sime took us into the Rector’s Palace for what was our third time, to see the exhibition of photographs showing the Homeland War in the area. Although we’d seen it before, it was so interesting hearing his take on the photos, having lived through the time. He can remember having parties underground whilst the war was going on above the ground.

We came round to Petar Zoranica Square, where he pointed out the local cat, that is always there. Of course you’ll get to know all about the fascinating Roman ruins that sit around the square. He even took us back in the park for the great overhead view of the Land Gate, where he explained how it was renovated and being looked after since the war damage. Check out the photo above to see how it looked back then.

You’ll get a literal taste of the culture of Zadar

Sime is a very generous man, and offers his guests a few treats along the way. Firstly, he took us to the local fruit market to buy us all a mandarin orange, since he claimed that Zadar oranges were the best. They are indeed delicious. He then took us to the Gligora cheese shop, where they sell Pag cheese. Pag cheese is made on a nearby island called Pag, and is a hard sheep milk cheese that has a distinctive flavour. The final treat was a shot glass full of the local famous drink, maraschino liqueur. Even the Queen drinks it. The cherry flavoured liqueur is delicious.

Another surprising find was a souvenir shop, housed in a former church building. It is an imposing space, with columns and arches, but best of all was the fact that much of the wall paintings survive to this day. Some of the colours are very vivid and medieval looking. As we passed some residential streets, Sime pointed out the bullet holes that covered much of the walls. Whilst Zadar has done a great job of renovation since the war, there are still countless signs if you look below the surface.

A refreshing counterbalance to an over-commercialised world

Taking the Zadar Walking Tour is a fantastic way to see Zadar, and feel its culture and history blend together. We ended up meeting Sime’s family, who were equally as kind-hearted and generous as him. In this world of large companies, even tour companies, it is a real treat to find a tour that is so on the pulse of the city that it wants to show you. Don’t hesitate if you see the man with the white umbrella on a sunny afternoon in Zadar!

Have you done any memorable walking tours? 

Lokrum Island: A desert island filled with bunnies and peacocks!

Dubrovnik really is a city that has it all. However, when you’ve had your fill of its historic streets, you’ve got the tantalising option of a short boat ride over to Lokrum Island. The boats leave the Old Port every half an hour in the summer, and the price of your journey includes admittance to the nature reserve, and your return journey. And yes, this island is home only to hundreds of bunnies and peacocks! We loved it so much, we went back again a second time!

Our first trip to Lokrum Island actually came on our first full day in Dubrovnik. The reason was that it was a gorgeous day, and the weather report had suggested worse weather was to follow. You get your tickets from a man who sits on a small table in the middle of the Old Port selling tickets for 120 kuna. The journey to Lokrum Island only takes around fifteen minutes. The views back to Dubrovnik are astonishing. Those city walls really are something else. It is a nice boat ride, and rather exciting to arrive at your desert island for the day.

Sit on the Iron Throne in the Visitor Centre

The island has a few different things to do, though most people seem to go there just to sunbathe. If you’re a fan of Game of Thrones, we’d suggest heading to the Visitor Centre first. They have the actual Iron Throne from Game of Thrones in there! It is free to take photos on it. You can find the Iron Throne by the back entrance to the Visitor Centre. The rest of this floor has an exhibition about the filming of the show. Three videos show behind the scenes. The only downside is that the videos are quite long, and you might find others waiting for their turn on the headphones.

The island is another popular filming location for the TV show. Amy excitedly recognised the Monastery Complex as being the location of Qarth in Game of Thrones. If you are a big fan, you’ll have fun recalling scenes that were filmed here, in the cloisters and monastery gardens. If not, a quick Google will bring up some screen shots to help you. It really is an impressive set of ruins, with palm trees adding some exoticism to it as well.

Downstairs in the Visitor Centre, you’ll find an atmospheric exhibition about the time that the English King, Richard the Lionheart, got shipwrecked on Lokrum, on his way back to the Crusades. The exhibition has lots of information boards, but also a projection relating to a supposed curse on the island, and even a wobbly walkway that is quite a shock!

A dream come true for bunny lovers

The paths on much of the island are filled with bunnies and peacocks. It is bizarre! The bunnies are rather friendly, and it is a dream come true for many people to play with so many bunnies at once! The peacocks are very inquisitive, and will most certainly want your picnic, if you decide to eat somewhere where they can see you.

Lokrum is the sort of place you can just explore, without knowing where you are going. We’d recommend trying to eventually find your way to the top of Fort Royal. This was built in the 1800s by the invading French army, and is now totally rundown. However, it does offer stunning views over the island. You can even go inside, and down the stairs to the bottom. However, it looks rather unsafe and dank inside. Much of the island is fairly run down to be honest, due in no small part to the war in the 1990s.

Down by the sea, there is a small unused boat jetty, perfect for picnics. It is cool to explore the rocks down there, and spot the sea creatures sticking out of the rocks. It is definitely a desert island experience, however. Lots of people, including many locals, come here to sunbathe, but we were disappointed to find an extremely rocky beach indeed. You’ll have to clamber down the loose rocks to get there, and have a search for somewhere suitable to lay down your towel. Nearby, however, there is a football field completely covered in bunnies!

The Dead Sea Cove is picture perfect

The best place to sunbathe, and have a swim, is the Dead Sea cove. Be sure to read the sign before you get in the water, however, as there is some dangerous stuff in there that you should avoid. It is also treacherously slippy on the rocks walking into the cove, so be careful.

Pigeon’s Cave is a bit difficult to find, and not signposted well at all. We were going through bushes and all sorts. We are pretty sure that you can’t get down to the inside of the cave, as we made our way to an overlook over an insane drop down to an immense cave. However, it looks great and well worth seeking out.

Another thing worth checking out is Charlotte’s Well, though it is rather difficult to find. In fact, it is rather scary, since it takes you deep into the woods. Once there, you’ll find the most insanely creepy sculptures, made of natural materials. It looks like a scene from The Blair Witch Project! The creatures are part of an exhibition called Mystical Creatures. Even the inside of Charlotte’s Well, which is a large concrete pool looking thing, is decorated, like it has just been part of a weird cult ritual. One of the creepiest is a tree stump decorated with a goat’s skull for a head! One less threatening one was a dragon that looked like a potato shape.

Whatever you enjoy, you’re sure to be impressed with Lokrum

Before you leave Lokrum, be sure to check out the Botanical Gardens. Even more Game of Thrones were filmed there. They have a good variety of plants in there, from Mickey Mouse shaped cactus, to palm trees. Then, its time to head back to Dubrovnik. Despite how incredible Dubrovnik is, you’ll be hard pressed to leave!

Have you ever had a desert island experience somewhere rather closer to the mainland than you expected? 

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