Hungary

Pecs Cathedral

Pecs is a gorgeous city in the south of Hungary, which was the European City of Culture in 2010. One thing that you really must try to see is Pecs Cathedral. This treasured medieval Catholic masterpiece was founded around 1000 years ago by the first King of Hungary, Saint Stephen. Stephen is one of Hungary’s most celebrated citizens, and their patron saint. His holy crown can be seen in the Hungarian Houses of Parliament, while you can even see his intact right hand in St Stephen’s Basilica (the main shrine to Stephen), both in Budapest.

On your way to Pecs Cathedral, check out the huge and impressive display of love locks. They are everywhere! In fact, Pecs is the home of the love locks tradition, pre-dating those in places like Paris, which have become more famous worldwide for it. Nearly every bit of fence is covered in them. There is a real obsession with love locks in the city. There are even bike locks!

The foundations date back to Roman times

Also near to the cathedral, you can walk over a glass floor, below which are the remains of an early Christian necropolis which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is really cool to see from above. The cathedral’s foundations are Roman, and even older churches were here before this one. Outside the main door of the Cathedral, you can’t miss the absolutely huge statues of the twelve apostles that once stood on top of the cathedral. They are about 3-4 times the size of an average person.

Pecs Cathedral’s official name is the Sts. Peter and Paul Cathedral Basilica. During opening hours, you can walk into the back of the cathedral for free to look at the overall view, but we highly recommend paying the fee to visit the rest of the cathedral. The fee includes all of the side chapels, the crypt, and the chance to climb the tower. The style is neo-Romanesque, due to a reconstruction in the late 1800s that followed the original architect’s plans.

The paintwork is a marvel

There are four separate side chapels that date back to the 1300s, but only a couple are open to visitors. Two of them were painted by the same guy, Karoly Lotz, who did iconic works in Budapest such as the Parliament and Matthias Church. They are painted directly on the walls, and are in fantastic condition. The first chapel is the Chapel of Mary, which shows St Stephen putting the crown on the Virgin Mary’s head. It is truly awesome.

The second, painted by Karoly Lotz, is the Chapel of the Sacred Heart of Jesus. With gold everywhere, it is beautiful. Lotz painted distinctive gold tin-foil type halos on the heads of the Christian characters. The most impressive bit is a huge canopy, which stands out on its own. The amazing details on the walls will captivate.

This is what you call a crypt

There are two different staircases that lead down to the crypt. It is a very large crypt, which dates back to Roman times. It is also the oldest part of the Cathedral. Don’t miss the carvings on both doorways. One contains stone carvings based on wooden sculptures from the 11th century. Both sides are individual. We went down one side that had a red painted background with a scene from the Last Supper and Jesus arriving on a donkey, whilst the other one is a scene of Jesus’ nativity. They are quite cool as they have a medieval 3-D effect to them.

The crypt is unbelievable. A big open space, but it still has all the paintings. It is a five nave structure, which is quite unusual as most only have three. The wall has a really cool little image of a weird little baby dragon, maybe a phoenix. It has even inspired a cuddly toy that you can purchase in the cathedral shop! Some former bishops are buried in the crypt. There are three models showing the cathedral during three stages of its existence and how it has changed over time.

Make sure to check out both doorways to the crypt

From here, we went out through the other entrance. The sculptures on this doorway look like playdough! They are really quite cool. This side has an alteration. The panels have the red background, but the front is done with blue which makes for an amazing contrast. It seems to show an image of Jesus being crowned by some angels.

To get to the bell tower, you walk up some stairs next to the crypt, and from here you get an amazing view of the back of the cathdral. You’ll be level with the stunning elevated altar that definitely shows some Eastern influence. You can see the cathedra where the bishop sits at the very back, and a beautiful painting of Jesus on the throne. Mary, and maybe Peter and Paul stand either side of him.

The views from the top of the Bell Tower are well worth the climb

At the very back is a very wide wooden staircase. Information panels on the way up tell you interesting historical facts about the cathedral. 133 steps take you to the top. Eventually, you’ll come face to face with the cathedral’s three bells. One only gets used at 12pm on a Sunday. This is the Francis of Assisi bell, the largest of the three. Just above it is a big open area with railings and fences. It is a really wide tower, not a cramped up one like many are. You don’t go around in a circle in this one, you can literally walk from one side to the other.

What is nice are the pictures showing what buildings you can see from all four sides. You’ll also see some of the original stone city walls that used to surround the area. It can get very windy up there, so isn’t advisable for anyone with a huge fear of heights. If you can cope with the heights, however, the views more than make up for it!

Which is your favourite cathedral? Have you been to Pecs?

We were visiting as the guests of Pecs Cathedral, but as always, all opinions are our own

The city of Pecs in Hungary is a delightful place to visit. What could be more romantic than the home of the love locks tradition? It has a long and varied history, which can be seen in its historical buildings. They range from Ancient Roman, to early Christian, to the Ottoman Empire, and its re-emergence as a hotbed of creativity and culture. This resulted in them being awarded the prestigious title of European Capital of Culture for 2010. Our travel guide to Pecs contains everything you need for a fantastic stay.

THINGS TO DO IN PECS

Cella Septichora – Pecs has a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and it is this: one of the oldest Christian burial sites known to man. A modern building surrounds the fragile ruins, which include the tomb of a man presumed to be a wine merchant. This is because his tomb was adorned with a wine vessel, and a painting of one on the wall. The most impressive is the ‘Peter and Paul tomb’, with its primitive biblical paintings. Don’t miss the separate tomb, which is outside, and your admission ticket covers admission here too.

Zsolnay Cultural Quarter – Zsolnay pottery is stunning, and adorns the roofs of Matthias Church and the House of Parliament in Budapest amongst other places. Their original factory was converted in readiness for the Capital of Culture year into a hive of cultural activity. Galleries, theatres, shops and restaurants will give you enough to do for a full day, yet it is worth a visit however fleeting.

Pecs Cathedral – This treasured medieval Catholic masterpiece was founded around 1000 years ago by the first King of Hungary, Saint Stephen. It is free to admire the view from the back, but well worth buying a ticket to see the side chapels, crypt and climb the tower. A reconstruction in the late 1800s gave Pecs Cathedral its present look, which is unlike any other Cathedral you have visited. Definitely take time to climb the tower for fantastic views over the city. To find out more about Pecs Cathedral, click here.

Mosque of Pasha Qasim – One of the world’s most remarkable religious buildings, it started life as a Gothic church. It was then rebuilt as a mosque when the Ottomans invaded. A hundred or so years later, the Catholics were back. They re-converted this Islamic-style building into a church once more. The only major external change was to replace the minaret with a bell tower. What’s most unusual, however, is that many of the internal features of the mosque also survive, including Islamic texts on the walls. A mihrab topped by Jesus on the cross is a strange juxtaposition between the two religions.

Szechenyi Ter – The main square in Pecs is one of the most beautiful in Hungary. The mosque church is the centrepiece, with modern water features, restaurants, and artworks including a fantastic Zsolnay fountain with the colourful ox heads that are a symbol of the city. Some great events take place in the square, and no matter what time of year, this is a great place to hang out.

Zsolnay Museum – If you want to admire the beautiful Zsolnay ceramics, there is no better place than the city centre Zsolnay Museum. The porcelains are breathtaking, and a source of great pride in the city. Allow time to relax in the garden as well.

Kiraly Utca – The main street in Pecs is perfect for a romantic stroll. It is full of restaurants and bars, and some truly impressive architecture. There are some nice artisan shops to browse on the way down to. If you keep going, you’ll eventually come to the Zsolnay Cultural Quarter.

Pecs Synagogue – This marvellously grand old synagogue is a stunning place. It opened back in 1869, and is beautifully furnished with oak furnishings and vivid colours. Through a separate entrance, you can access the balcony, where you can find exhibitions on Jewish history. They range from the history of the Jewish community in Pecs, to the holocaust and modern day life in the community.

Arkad Shopping Centre – This is the biggest shopping centre in the region. Worth a trip if you need to buy anything, or would like to do a bit of window shopping. It isn’t anything special to make a special effort, however.

Zsolnay Family Mausoleum – A most splendid memorial to one of Pecs’ most famous citizens. The path leading towards it is lined by a pride of Zsolnay style lions, and is a sight to behold.

HOW TO GET TO PECS

From overseas? Pecs has an airport, but you’re unlikely to find a plane heading there. Instead, fly to Budapest Franz Liszt International Airport. From here, there are frequent trains to Pecs. Compare flight options from your local airport here.

By train? You can easily reach Pecs by train from Budapest and other Hungarian cities. It is also possible to arrive from Sarajevo or Vienna by train. Check Mav-Start for timetables.

By bus? Buses run to Pecs from all over Hungary and Northern Croatia. We would recommend the train over the bus however.

By car? You can easily get to Pecs by car. Check here to compare car hire prices.

WHERE TO STAY IN PECS

Luxury? Corso Hotel Pecs is centrally located and serves a nice breakfast. Unfortunately, Pecs doesn’t seem to have much in the luxury hotel stakes. Book here.

Mid-range? Hotel Therapia is ultra-modern, though it is best if you have a car to stay here. It is up on the Mescek Mountain, not close to the city centre. Book here.

Budget? Ananas Hostel is situated in an old Hungarian house, with a garden where you can relax under the apricot tree! Book here.

Cheaper and more authentic? Try Airbnb, where you can find some unusual and fantastic homestays in more traditional surroundings. Click our special link to receive £25 off your first stay!

Free? Couchsurfing is a vibrant community of over 14 million world travellers, who host others on their travels.

WHERE TO EAT IN PECS

Romantic? Tuke Wine House serves good food, and has a romantic ambiance. Keep in mind that you often have to book a table in advance. If you’re visiting in summer, get a table on the terrace and admire the view of the city.

Best for local food? Tettye Restaurant is somewhat of a Pecs institution. It has a bit of a retro feel to it, but serves large portions of traditional Hungarian classics. Unfortunately, the prices match the portion sizes.

Cheap and cheerful? Oazis is a kebab restaurant on Kiraly Utca. The decor of the interior is rather interesting, and the meals are tasty, filling, and unbelievably cheap.

OTHER TIPS FOR YOUR TRIP TO PECS

How to pronounce Pecs? Paych.

Pecs is the probable birthplace of the love locks craze that has seemingly taken over every bridge in the world. The best display of them is near to Pecs Cathedral.

You can see some of the remains of the early Christian cemetery without paying if you are on a very tight budget, or have little interest in them. There is a glass floor over part of it, which you can walk over. We’d recommend paying if you can though.

English is spoken very widely in Pecs. You won’t have any trouble communicating. However, it is always worth downloading Google Translate just in case!

Pecs has a wonderful Mediterranean-style atmosphere. It is the sort of city that you can easily while away just strolling around and enjoying the ambiance.

The city is very walkable. The Zsolnay Cultural Quarter is slightly out of the town centre, yet still an easy walk for most. The only city attraction you may need to get a bus or taxi for is the TV Tower. Whether it is worth the hassle with so much to see is a matter for debate.

Pecs can be visited year-round. For the best weather, visit in the summer – July and August. It isn’t as touristy as other cities, so the crowds won’t be unmanageable.

The tourist information is superb. They are really friendly, and can point you in the right direction once in Pecs.

Pecs’ highlights can be seen in two days. We’d most definitely recommend spending at least two evenings in Pecs, with a third if possible.

Has this travel guide to Pecs helped you to plan your trip? Anything else that you would like to know?

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The 3D Gallery, Budapest

Being from the UK, we’ve learned the importance of always having a back-up option in case of poor weather. Budapest is a city with many fantastic indoor attractions, and one of the newest is the 3D Gallery. You can find the 3D Gallery just across the road from the Basilica, near to Andrassy Avenue. Click here for a self-guided tour of Andrassy Avenue that we put together.

The 3D Gallery is very small, but has a huge range of amazing photo opportunities. It is a collection of illusion-type images on the walls that you can stand next to for really unusual photographs. As well as taking as many pictures as you like with your own camera, the helpful staff members will also help you to take group pictures using their own cameras.

Don’t miss the chance to see yourself with angel wings, or wearing a tutu doing ballet. For couples, you can sit on a ‘bench’ whilst an angel plays the violin. The interactive paintings are great to admire on their own, but it is great fun to come up with funny and unique poses to really make yourselves part of the artwork.

Photo opportunities at every turn

The artworks are regularly changing, so there will always be something new to catch your attention. Admission is fairly expensive, though it does come with a free print of one of your images. The staff will also e-mail you any photographs that they take on their own iPhones, which you can download free of charge.

Whilst not really a photo opportunity, we also loved the squishy floor that contains liquid that moves around as you stand on it. The 3D Gallery is a nice diversion from the more historic attractions of Budapest. If you happen to be there on a rainy day, we totally recommend that you stop by the 3D Gallery. You’ll leave with some memorable photographs and happy memories.

What unique photo opportunities have you had recently?

Aquincum: A Roman city near to Budapest

Aquincum was once the ancient Roman capital city of Pannonia Inferior, which is situated on the outskirts of modern day Budapest. It is believed that Marcus Aurelius wrote part of his book ‘Meditations’ here. Unbelievably, there are a lot of amazing ruins that you can still see today including a lapidarium, roman bath and two amphitheatres. Most of the ruins have now become part of a museum complex.

To get there, get the Metro Line 2 to Batthyany Ter, and then a HEV, which is an overground tram, to Aquincum. The first thing you’ll see are the remains of one of the amphitheatres, with an information board nearby. There is no sign of the museum though. It is a short ten minute walk away, and just involves crossing the road, turning right and heading under the bridge. From there, its a straight walk. There are free lockers in the ticket office, which is always handy.

Start your visit by checking out the very modern museum. Inside, there is a large map of how the Roman Empire saw the world and its area. Rather than being round, it is spread out horizontally. We went into another room where there were artefacts such as weapons, and even bottles used for feeding babies. Also, lots of mosaics that were part of wall and ceiling displays, and bits of iron work from chairs and tables. In another room next door, they have interesting temporary exhibitions.

Aquincum is great for kids of all ages

Downstairs, there is an interactive exhibit. You can put a vase together, and stand on various displays and move things virtually with your hands. If you’re not pint-sized, you may have to keep crouching down as it might struggle to register your hands, since it is probably made for children. You’ll also get the chance to dress up in Roman clothes, if you fancy getting into the spirit of the occasion! One of Amy’s favourite games is a Roman game, with lots of squares that you have to get three in a row to win. You can play the game here too.

Make sure you head upstairs before you leave as it would be a shame to miss the only water pipe organ that has survived from Roman times. It isn’t complete, but with only the metal parts available, they’ve managed to work out how it was put together. They have a few models of it on display. One has the metal pieces in their correct place with plastic pieces making up the rest. The other model is wooden and metal, which is what they believed it would have looked like and is actually playable!

After you have read about the history, start to explore the site

The room next door is very cool, with large ceramic pieces, stonework and mosaic floors all the way around the very big open space. One mosaic floor is heart shaped, which is pretty cute. There’s also a balcony to walk out on to as well. After the museum, tour around the archaeological site outside. For orientation, you can follow the map they provide you with, but sometimes following the numbers in order will involve a lot of backtracking which is pointless. There is a very cool play area with mythological creatures. Head up the small hill for some great photo opportunities.

Don’t miss the kronoscope whilst you’re here, which lets you see into the past. As you move it, you can see the buildings as they would have looked in Roman times. It is very cool, and we’ve not seen anything like it before. Afterwards, check out the painter’s house, which is a recreation that you can go inside. It is fully painted and furnished. The rest of the site is mostly ruins, though there are some mosaic floors to see. There is plenty of signage to tell you what you are looking at. You’ll even find yourselves at a former theatre, where you can take turns to do some dramatic poses.

It is like stepping back in time at Aquincum

Carrying on, you’ll come to the remains of a Roman bath. If you have seen any Roman baths before, you’ll spot many similarities such as the hypocaust (underfloor heating system). In another area there is a shrine which would have been for one of the many deities the Romans worshipped. The grand building in the middle of all these ruins is the Old Museum.

This building may look closed on the outside but there are often temporary exhibitions on inside. The one we saw was fantastic as it was all about Hadrian, who did a lot more than just build a huge wall between England and Scotland. Adjacent to here is a lapidarium with a lot of stone works and tombs. After exploring to your heart’s content, it is easy to retrace your steps back to the HEV stop and head back to Budapest. A very enjoyable short excursion indeed, and most definitely one to skip taking an organised tour to.

Do you enjoy wandering around ancient ruins? Can you picture in your mind what these places would have looked like?

Andrassy Avenue, Budapest: World Heritage Site

Budapest’s very own Champs Elysees, Andrassy Avenue is an immense boulevard that is itself a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was built in 1872, and added some much-needed structure into the haphazard design of Budapest’s streets. With spectacular neo-Renaissance buildings lining its lengthy street, it is an amazing place to stroll down. We’ll show you the best bits!

Who is Andrassy?

Gyula Andrassy was the Prime Minister of Hungary responsible for giving the construction the go-ahead. Boring, maybe. However, you have to agree it is better than its former name – Stalin Street! This was of course during the time of Soviet occupation after World War II.

You can start your tour of Andrassy Avenue with a chimney cake. These are available for a fraction of the cost they are in Prague, despite the fact they are a Hungarian delicacy, not a Czech one! One of the best places to try them is Kurtoskalacs, a street vendor on the corner of Andrassy Avenue. Chimney cakes are like a winding bread roll that break off bit by bit as you eat them. Pretty tasty, though a bit dry.

Probably the most impressive building on this elegant street is the State Opera House, which is well worth visiting in its own right. It is one of the most beautiful neo-renaissance buildings in Europe.

At the moment, you can only admire the former Paris department store from outside, as unfortunately this art nouveau masterpiece is closed for refurbishment. When it opens again, definitely pop into the glorious cafe.

Is that the world’s smallest Burger King? No, it is the biggest!

Liszt Ferenc Square offers a lively respite from the long elegant road, and the Oktogon a huge intersection. On the opposite side of the road is the world’s largest Burger King. It was funny because I asked Amy what she thought was special about this Burger King, and she guessed that it might be the smallest Burger King in the world! Indeed, from outside it doesn’t look all that big. Inside, either, it didn’t appear to be huge, though it was on three floors, so that must be how it makes up its space.

The street becomes wider still after the Oktogon, as posh residential houses were built here for people such as composer Ferenc Liszt. Nowadays, most are offices. The striking Museum of Terror has a piece of the Berlin Wall outside as well as a literal iron curtain artpiece. They even have astroturf grass next to the street to keep up the appearances!

As if it were possible, the street becomes even wider as Heroes Square approaches. Another intersection is surrounded by four varied but elegant town houses with a different statue in front of each. Heroes Square is Budapest’s most famous square. In the centre is a huge monument to celebrate 1000 years of the Magyars. A couple of grand art galleries sit either side of it.

City Park is an oasis within the city

The bridge behind Heroes Square leads to City Park, which is well worth a visit on a pleasant day. There are plenty of places to sit, including one bench themed around one of Hungary’s favourite inventions, the Rubik’s Cube. Fishermen enjoy sitting around the large pond, whilst you can also spot friendly terrapins if you are lucky.

There is a zoo in the park, and even a circus. The main attraction of the park, however, is one of Europe’s largest thermal baths, Szechenyi Baths. Even if you’re not in the mood for a spa session, go in to see the luxurious interior.

Don’t miss out Vajdahunyad Castle, which was based on a castle in Transylvania. It was built, like much of Budapest in fact, in 1896, to celebrate the country’s millennium. In the courtyard, you can see the famous statue ‘Anonymous’, which looks very creepy and sinister. There is also a statue of Hungarian actor Bela Lugosi. Lugosi was the original Dracula in the 1931 film. A rather fitting place for him, being a copy of a Transylvanian castle! The grounds are extremely romantic, with photo opportunities galore.

Travel back in style via the world’s oldest underground outside of London

After checking out the castle. head back to the city centre via the historic M1 underground, itself another UNESCO World Heritage Site. Known as the Millennium Underground, it was the first underground trainline on continental Europe. Again, it was built in 1896. It was a very important year in Hungary’s history! The train cars are still very much so vintage, as are the stations, so it is an experience worth having.

Get off at the final stop, Vorosmarty Square. If you wait around, you can see the train switch tracks. The driver has to get out and walk down to the other side to go back again! Vorosmarty square is named after a Hungarian poet whose statue is in the middle of it. The famous Gerbaud Cafe is here too, as it has been for well over 100 years. From here, you are in close proximity to many of Budapest’s top attractions.

Hope you enjoyed following our walking tour! Is there anything we missed off?